Edinburgh Classic Pub Crawl

If drinking Tennents and Jager bombs whilst listening to the top forty at top volume and drowning in your own sweat is not your thing, Edinburgh is littered with drinking establishments that offer a different kind of experience. What follows is a potentially fatal pub crawl with many a malt of the month, a lot of delicious beer and much, much more.

We begin outdoors, in the wind and probable rain. There is no bar or quiz machine. You are a little out of breath and your legs are tired. The city stretches out and around beneath you. As you turn you see the Firth of Forth lapping at Leith, and then Portobello. You sit down in a sheltered dip and gaze out at your new home through hungover eyes. You are on your obligatory trip to the top of Arthur’s Seat. You’re probably thinking about the descent as your shivering becomes more violent, but don’t go that way. Instead of heading back down towards Pollack Halls and the can of Carlsberg in a new friend’s fridge, turn and head towards Duddingston Loch. Just past the Loch you will find The Sheep Heid Inn. A pub that may date back to the fourteenth century, it resembles an old country pub and after your brisk walk will steal away your idea that you are in a capital city. The dark stained wood, soft lighting and assorted antiques, books and pictures create a warm and cosy atmosphere, ideal for waking up with your first drink. If the illusive sun manages to peek through the clouds then you can move outside to the paved beer garden and if you fancy some old time fun then you’re in the right place. Separate from the main pub is The Sheep Heid’s two lane skittle alley. This is essentially wooden ten pin bowling and it can be rented out by the hour if the mood so takes you. Once you’re thirst is suitably quenched it’s time to get walking or hop on a bus back into town.

Our next pub is The Cask and Barrel Southside on West Preston Street. The horseshoe bar takes up a lot of space in the pub, but standing up for a bit isn’t a pain when there’s a large amount of guest ales and a multitude of spirits behind it. More dark wood, beer brand mirrors and old men mumbling at newspapers continue the traditional start of the exploration. On leaving The Cask and Barrel, head across the Meadows towards the magnificent Cloisters Bar. This pub boasts another well stocked bar and a knowledgeable staff to help you choose. It’s a popular place with a good atmosphere, a great selection of guest ales, whisky served in proper measures, some interesting rums and a whole lot more. Take a seat on a creaky wooden bench and enjoy.

Another very popular place can be found just around the corner or through a leafy alleyway if you keep your eyes open. You will most probably find yourself standing in Brauhaus, it is tiny and the limited seating gets snatched up quickly. However, there is a drink here for everybody; there is a beer here for everybody. They stock enough beers to warrant a many paged menu. They come from all around the world in different shapes, sizes, colours and tastes. Glug away at a huge German Stein or sample a variety of fruit beers. Let your tongue visit Asia or America, Europe or Africa, you will not be disappointed.

After Brauhaus there’s another long walk or slightly shorter bus ride. The Caley Sample Room on Angle Park Terrace is not a trip around the corner for first years and I should warn you that it is not the cheapest of pubs either. It is worth a visit though, if only occasionally. You’ll find another impressive selection of worldwide beer here, but they’ve also got a lot of wine and a vast ocean of spirits. A modern twist on the traditional pub theme, The Caley Sample Room is a great place for a fancier drink when you’ve saved up a few pennies.

When you’re tasty detour is over, it’s back to where we came from for The Blue Blazer. This is back in the traditional zone, made up of two small, wood panelled rooms lined with empty whisky casings and old pictures. The selection of drinks is more modest, but you’ll find a local Scottish ale or two. The bar staff are friendly and attentive and there’s usually a good mix of people in there. You could do a lot worse for a relaxing pint. A short stroll down Lothian Road will bring you to the larger, more modern styled Red Squirrel. This is another pub that will require a few extra pounds, but you can try some excellent craft beers on tap and eat a good burger if you’re hungry.

Stockbridge is an area to which Edinburgh students may not be frequent visitors, it’s far away and prices do tend to rise up and rear their ugly heads. However, there are a couple of pubs amongst the genteel, cobbled streets that are worth making the effort for. Hector’s is a contemporary pub restaurant where you can find draught and bottled beer from around the world, wines and spirits to further satisfy the inquisitive, a relaxed atmosphere and helpful staff. Just across the road is The Stockbridge Tap. It’s a fairly ordinary place, more of that wood and those mirrors, but it’s a bit fresher and lighter than some of the others and they serve some quality Scottish beers. Perhaps after a trip to the botanic gardens you could settle down on a stool and flick through The Skinny for the night’s entertainment.

If you’re still moving then the next challenge is to slowly carry your weight back up the hill via Fredrick Street. On the corner of Thistle Street you will find The Queens Arms. Wine bottles and other assorted items hang from the ceiling in this old fashioned pub with a clean, contemporary polish. There should be something to please everyone here. A lot of Scottish whiskey, a varied selection of beers, a modest wine list and a cocktail menu are all on offer. The Standing Order will be a welcome sight for your rapidly emptying wallet as you stumble onto George Street. The usual Wetherspoons atmosphere can be expected, but the large, old bank adds some character to the place and there’s plenty of room for everybody. It’s a great place for a cheap ale and somewhere that satisfies most with its wide appeal and range of drinks. Keep an ear to the dirty carpeted ground for news about their ale and whisky festivals.

The easiest way to get to The Halfway House from George Street is probably through Waverly station. Once successfully through the station climb up the steps of Fleshmarket Close and you’ll be at the pub. This minute gem has four pumps serving fine cask ales from mostly Scottish brewers, often showcasing the produce of micro-breweries. A different world from the busy surrounding areas, The Halfway House should not be overlooked.

Next, climb over the Royal Mile and into the cold, damp Cowgate. You’ll probably blend in well with the hoards of staggering inebriates as they fall out of one club and into another. In my opinion most of the places along this dark street are to be avoided, but not the BrewDog bar. This industrial designed bar is something very different to most on my list. BrewDog make a fantastic range of beers and this is the place to sample them. It is a place where their whole philosophy about making and drinking beer hits home. Behind the bar is the standard BrewDog range, some of their rarer products (be very careful with Tactical Nuclear Penguin) and a host of guest beers from all around the world. The staff know exactly what they’re talking about and keep drinks flowing from the crowded bar at an impressive rate. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat you can sit down to a nice board game with your delicious drink, I recommend the Jenga.

For the final three you need to head out of the Cowgate via Candlemaker Row. At the top of this street you will find Greyfriars Bobby. Further down onto Forrest Road is Sandy Bell’s and just past that is The Doctors. These three places return us to the classical Edinburgh pub theme which I’m sure you’ve got a handle on now. During the day they all offer a nice quiet drink, but lively crowds fill them up as the night approaches. Attractive because of their easy location and reasonably priced drinks across the whole spectrum. Sandy Bell’s is also the place to be for local folk sessions.

This completes my pub crawl. As you may have realised, there are a large quantity of public houses in this guide. They’re spread out over a large enough area to blister your feet or make you sick of buses, or possibly on buses. I do not advise that you actually attempt to visit these places in one long, hazy day and I will not be held responsible for any visits to hospital or the Greyfriars Kirkyard. If you do attempt and complete it then swing by the Thistle Street Bar and I’ll buy you one more. I hope that you manage to get around them all in your own time, on the way discovering many of the other treasures hidden around Edinburgh.

Tim (Pubman) Breadmore-Gray